Interceptor template (GIF)

Stock/Pro-Line Interceptor body template

A RC10T4.com exclusive, this is a carefully traced template of the shape and contours of the stock T4 body, also known as Pro-Line's "Interceptor" shell, as viewed from the top and side. Use this as a template for drawing up your T4's paint scheme, either for your own reference or to hand to a professional painter, like I did! Click the thumbnail or link at right for the 1024x768 version, or if you want something smaller to just play around with, you can get that here.

Tightening your steering - Part 1

The old B3 servo saver spring that comes with the T4 is, simply put, weak; too weak for the leverage on this truck's steering column. You can tighten it down dramatically, but even this does not help significantly. Pick up the new #9657 heavy-duty spring for a buck & a half and install it when you build your truck. If you've already assembled your T4, you can get to the steering column by simply removing the three screws that go into the upper chassis, the two that hold on the front bumper, and the remaining two that hold in the front bulkhead to the kickup portion of the main chassis. Then remove the two steering column bolts to fully disassemble the bellcranks. Be sure to push the new spring in all the way. Tighten the adjustment nut down fully before backing it out 1/2 to 1 turn, to your tastes. Be sure to leave some room for slip, or your servo will be vulnerable to the direct forces of impacts.

Tightening your steering - Part 2

Switching to the heavy-duty servo saver spring keeps the saver from acting prematurely and excessively. However, the T4/B4 steering setup still has a good deal of slop in it (you can turn the wheels back & forth without activating the servo saver or moving the servo arm). The main remaining culprits here are the servo link cups of parts set #9170 (bag G, step 4). The Associated ball cups have some play perpendicular to the ball stud, and quite a bit parallel to it. I was able to deal with this by switching to Losi servo link cups, Team Losi #A-1615. These cups are longer than the Associated units, and need their shanks cut down to the same length as the originals you replace. Replace them on the threaded rod and adjust to the same spacing as shown in your manual. The new cups will be harder to snap on, but they aren't so tight that they bind. You'll notice a dramatic improvement in tightness of the steering column.

The truth about wheels

There have been a lot of confusing words going around about the wheels used on the T4. I just brought out a straight-edge and set of calipers to verify the facts for myself. Here are the offsets I measured:

T4 wheels are, indeed, 100% compatible with T3/GT wheels (varying by roughly 1/64" from manufacturer to manufacturer). The difference between the two, at least the Associated brand rims, is that the T4 wheels have 8 ribs in them for more stiffness versus the old 6-ribbed T3 molds. The result is similar to stiffening your chassis; your suspension gets to do its work more effectively and consistently. On the other hand, running Losi wheels will not only narrow your truck, but make the front track less than the rear, taking away steering and just generally ruining the fine balance of the truck.